Practical Matters

Not comforting.

     Hey Michael, where are you? What does your average day look like? What are you eating? Where are you? Have you met any other pilgrims? Where are you now? Well I'm glad you asked!  Three weeks into my pilgrimage I suppose it's about time for an update on all the practical things.

Mountains!

Far over the Misty Mountains cold...

One of the bridges near St. Guilhem le Desert.

 






   






     So far I've come just over 400 kilometers or 250 miles from Arles to Toulouse.  I'm staying with Isabelle again for a day or two to rest and let my body recover a bit before heading back out.  My progress has been a little slower than I expected for two reasons: first, I didn't have time to train before starting out so these first few weeks have served as my training; second, since this route isn't as popular it isn't built up as much as the Le Puy route so I often don't have a choice of what town to stay in (or, more accurately, my choice is to walk 20km or 45km in a day...my max so far is 36).  Plus I spent a week crossing the southern tip of the Massif Central mountain range, it's difficult to cover much horizontal distance when you're climbing 3000 feet in the morning and descending the same altitude in the afternoon.  But the landscapes were breathtaking!  Anyway, now that I'm out of the mountains and my body's stronger than it was my speed should pick up a bit.

     So far my average day has started at 6:30, though I've gotten up at 5:30 on a few of the longer days. First thing when I wake up I pray the first two offices of the Liturgy of the Hours (the Office of Readings and Morning Prayer).  After prayer I eat breakfast, which always consists of bread and jam, sometimes orange juice, and some fruit if I'm lucky. (Side note: I have yet to meet a french person who isn't overly suprised that I don't drink tea or coffee.  It's kind of like that scene from My Big Fat Greek Wedding when the they tell the family that the guy doesn't eat meat.)  After breakfast I pack up and get on the road by about 8:30.  As soon as I'm out of the town and not worried about missing trail markers and getting lost I pray a rosary.  I try to find a good scenic spot around noon to stop for about 30 minutes for lunch, Midday Prayer, and to stretch my back and legs.  At 3:00 I pray the Divine Mercy Chaplet, usually I'm still hiking, but sometimes I'm already at the gite (pilgrim's shelter) or (even better) have come across a church at the right time to pray the chaplet there (that's only happened once).  Whenever I pass a church I check to see if it's open (usually not unfortunately) and if so I take the opportunity to set my pack down and sit before the Blessed Sacrament for a few minutes.  I get to the gite between 2:30 and 4:30, pay, get my credencial stamped, shower, and wash my clothes.  All of that takes about an hour and half.  Once I'm settled in I go out to find a baker and a grocer to get stuff for dinner and the next day's lunch.  Sometime between 5 and 6 I'll pray Evening Prayer, and if mass is available (usually around 6:30) I'll go to that.  I eat dinner around 7 (pasta, sauce, meat if I can find it; it's easy, quick, and keeps your body moving), either alone or with other pilgrims if they're around.  After dinner I'll journal for a bit and figure out where I'm going the next day, maybe read a little if I have the time.  then it's Night Prayer and bed by 9:00.


     I've been fortunate to meet several other pilgrims along the way; though there aren't nearly as many as there will be when I join the main route through Spain.  I've met a couple German guys and several French pilgrims who have spoken English and been able to help me along the way.  Even just having familiar faces when I arrive at the gite at night is extremely comforting; and the probability of sharing a meal with each other is higher when you've been seeing each other for a few nights.  I've only had 2 or 3 communal meals but they've all been great experiences.  Finding out where people are from, what they do, etc.; getting adfvice on what's coming up... asking them what the heck is on my plate and why everyone is eating cheese that any civilized person would clearly say has gone bad. (I'm trying, but I don't think I'm going to leave France with a taste for it's cheeses.)  The fraternity has really been fantastic, and several times the Lord has brought another pilgrim into my life just in time to guide me through something I couldn't have figured out on my own.  Pilgrims come into and go out of each other's ways often, staying at the same places for a few nights, and then parting ways, maybe to meet again, maybe not.  It's often a little sad to say goodbye to a pilgrim whom you don't think you'll see again, but you never know... perhaps at Santiago.

Felix, Aurelian, and I in Montpelier.

Two French pilgrims that I traveled with for about 2 weeks.